Effects of benzophenone-3 and its metabolites on the marine diatom Chaetoceros neogracilis: Underlying mechanisms and environmental implications.

The wide application of benzophenones (BPs), such as benzophenone-3 (BP3), as an ingredient in sunscreens, cosmetics, coatings, and plastics, has led to their global contamination in aquatic environments. Using the marine diatom Chaetoceros neogracilis as a model, this study assessed the toxic effects and mechanisms of BP3 and its two major metabolites (BP8 and BP1). The results showed that BP3 exhibited higher toxicity on C. neogracilis than BP8 and BP1, with their 72-h median effective concentrations being 0.4, 0.8 and 4 mg/L, respectively. Photosynthesis efficiencies were significantly reduced after exposure to environmentally relevant concentrations of the three benzophenones, while cell viability, membrane integrity, membrane potential, and metabolic activities could be further impaired at their higher concentrations. Comparative transcriptomic analysis, followed by gene ontology and KEGG pathway enrichment analyses unraveled that all the three tested benzophenones disrupted photosynthesis and nitrogen metabolism of the diatom through alteration of similar pathways. The toxic effect of BP3 was also attributable to its unique inhibitory effects on eukaryotic ribosome biosynthesis and DNA replication. Taken together, our findings underscore that benzophenones may pose a significant threat to photosynthesis, oxygen production, primary productivity, carbon fixation, and the nitrogen cycle of diatom in coastal waters worldwide.

Safety assessment for nail cosmetics: Framework for the estimation of systemic exposure through the nail plate.

All cosmetics products, including nail care products, must be evaluated for their safety. The assessment of systemic exposure is a key component of the safety assessment. However, data on the exposure, especially via ungual route (nail plate) are limited. Based on the physicochemical properties of human nails and permeability data of topical onychomycosis drugs, the nail plate is considered a good barrier to chemicals. We examine factors impacting penetration of nail care ingredients through the nail plate, including properties of the nails of the ingredients and formulations. The molecular weight, vapor pressure, logP, water solubility, and keratin binding, as well as formulations properties e.g., polymerization of acrylate monomers are considered important factors affecting penetration. To estimate systemic exposure of nail care ingredients through the nail plate, a standardized framework is applied that quantifies the impacts of these properties on penetration with an adjustment factor for each of these influencing properties. All the adjustment factors are then consolidated to derive an integrated adjustment factor which can be used for calculation of the systemic exposure dose for the ingredient. Several case studies are presented to reflect how this framework can be used in the exposure assessment for nail cosmetic products.

The pleiotropic role of Salinicoccus bacteria in enhancing ROS homeostasis and detoxification metabolism in soybean and oat to cope with pollution of triclosan.

Triclosan has been extensively used as a preservative in cosmetics and personal care products. However, its accumulation represents a real environmental threat. Thus, its phytotoxic impact needs more consideration. Our study was conducted to highlight the phytotoxic effect of triclosan on the growth, ROS homeostasis, and detoxification metabolism of two different plant species i.e., legumes (Glycine max) and grass (Avena sativa). Moreover, we investigated the potentiality of plant growth-promoting bacteria (ST-PGPB) in mitigating the phytotoxic effect of triclosan. Triclosan induced biomass (fresh and dry weights) reduction in both plants, but to a higher extent in oats. This decline was associated with a noticeable increment in the oxidative damage (e.g., MDA and H2O2) and detoxification metabolites such as metallothionein (MTC), phytochelatins (PCs), and glutathione-S-transferase (GST). This elevation was associated with a remarkable reduction in both enzymatic and non-enzymatic antioxidants. On the other hand, the bioactive strain of ST-PGPB, Salinicoccus sp. JzA1 significantly alleviated the harmful effect of triclosan on both soybean and oat plants by enhancing their biomass, photosynthesis, as well as levels of minerals (K, Ca, P, Mn, and Zn). In parallel, a striking quenching in oxidative damage and an obvious improvement in non-enzymatic (polyphenols, tocopherols, flavonoids) and enzymatic antioxidants were observed. Furthermore, Salinicoccus sp. JzA1 augmented the detoxification metabolism by enhancing the levels of phytochelatins, metallothionein, and glutathione-S-transferase (GST) activity in a species-specific manner which is more apparent in soybean rather than in oat plants. To this end, stress mitigating impact of Salinicoccus sp. JzA1 provides a basis to improve the resilience of crop species under cosmetics and personal care products toxicity.

Single- and combined-phthalate exposures are associated with biological ageing among adults.

BACKGROUND: Previous research has emphasized the effects of lifestyle and genetics on ageing. However, the association between exposure to phthalates, which are extensively used in cosmetics and personal care products, and ageing is still unclear. METHOD: Data for 4711 subjects from the National Health and Nutrition Examination Survey (NHANES) from 2005 to 2010 were incorporated in the present study. The acceleration of the Klemera-Doubal method-biological age (KDM-BA) and phenotypic Age (PhenoAge) were measured by the composite of 13 biomarkers. Multiple-linear and weighted-quantile sum (WQS) regression models were constructed to explore the relationships of single- and combined-phthalate exposures, as indicated by urinary phthalate metabolites, with KDM-BA and PhenoAge. A generalized additive model (GAM) was fitted to explore the potential nonlinear relationships among the above variables. RESULTS: Except for mono-(carboxynonyl), all urinary phthalate metabolites were associated with biological ageing, with correlation coefficients ranging from 0.241 to 0.526; however, mono-ethyl presented a negative correlation. The WQS models revealed mixed effects of combined urinary phthalate metabolites on ageing, with a 0.22-year ((95 % CI) 0.09, 0.32) increase in KDM-BA acceleration and a 0.27-year ((95 % CI) 0.13, 0.37) increase in PhenoAge acceleration for each decile increase in urinary phthalate metabolites. Moreover, MCPP, MEOHP, and MBzP seemed to be the top three phthalates in terms of biological ageing, with weights of 33.3 % and 32.2 %, 29.2 % and 17.2 %, and 21.5 % and 30.1 % in KDM-BA and PhenoAge acceleration, respectively. CONCLUSION: Single-phthalate exposure was mostly associated with the ageing process, and combined-phthalate exposure presented mixed effects on biological ageing, emphasizing phthalate exposure as a significant risk factor for ageing.

Exploring the use of niosomes in cosmetics for efficient dermal drug delivery.

Dermal drug delivery has emerged as a promising alternative to traditional methods of drug administration due to its non-invasive nature and ease of use. However, the stratum corneum, the outermost layer of the skin, presents a significant barrier to drug penetration. Niosomes, self-assembled vesicular structures composed of nonionic surfactants and cholesterol, have been extensively investigated as a means of overcoming this barrier and improving the efficacy of dermal drug delivery. This review summarizes the current state of research on the use of niosomes in dermal drug delivery in cosmetics, with a particular focus on their formulation, characterization, and application in the delivery of various drug classes. The review highlights the advantages of niosomes over conventional drug delivery methods, including improved solubility and stability of drugs, controlled release, and enhanced skin permeation. The review also discusses the challenges associated with niosome-based drug delivery, such as their complex formulation and optimization, and the need for further studies on their long-term safety and toxicity.

Effect of massage on retinol skin penetration.

Topical administration of active substances may be promoted by optimizing not only the vehicle formulation but also the application protocol. The formulation aspects are widely studied in the literature while a few works are dedicated to the development of application methods. In this context, we studied an application protocol usable as a part of skincare routine by investigating the effect of massage on the skin penetration of retinol. Retinol is a lipophilic molecule widely used as an anti-ageing firming agent in cosmetic formulations. Massage was applied to pig skin explants mounted to Franz diffusion cells after or before the deposit of the retinol-loaded formulation. Thetype of skin massage (roll or rotary type) and its duration were varied.The massage protocol had a significant influence on retinol skin penetration. Due to its highly lipophilic character, retinol accumulated into the stratum corneum but, depending on the massage protocol, a significant retinol concentration was obtained after 4 h in epidermis and dermis layers. Results showed that the roll-type massage was significantly more efficient than the rotary process that exhibited little effect on retinol cutaneous penetration. Such results could be interesting for the development of massage devices in association with cosmetic formulations.

Global Trends of Cosmeceutical in Nanotechnology: A Review.

Nanotechnology suggests different innovative solutions to augment the worth of cosmetic products through the targeted delivery of content that manifests scientific innovation in research and development. Different nanosystems, like liposomes, niosomes, microemulsions, solid lipid nanoparticles, nanoform lipid carriers, nanoemulsions, and nanospheres, are employed in cosmetics. These nanosystems exhibit various innovative cosmetic functions, including site-specific targeting, controlled content release, more stability, improved skin penetration and enhanced entrapment efficiency of loaded compounds. Thus, cosmeceuticals are assumed as the highest-progressing fragment of the personal care industries that have progressed drastically over the years. In recent decades, cosmetic science has widened the origin of its application in different fields. Nanosystems in cosmetics are beneficial in treating different conditions like hyperpigmentation, wrinkles, dandruff, photoaging and hair damage. This review highlights the different nanosystems used in cosmetics for the targeted delivery of loaded content and commercially available formulations. Moreover, this review article has delineated different patented nanocosmetic formulation nanosystems and future aspects of nanocarriers in cosmetics.

Mechanism of uptake, accumulation, transport, metabolism and phytotoxic effects of pharmaceuticals and personal care products within plants: A review.

Pharmaceuticals and personal care products (PPCPs) ubiquitously occur in the environment, resulting in detrimental effects on human health and other organisms. With the application of compost, manure and biosolids and the reclamation of treated wastewater, PPCP contaminants are introduced into the terrestrial and aquatic environments, giving rise to potential accumulation in plants. As PPCPs represent a range of chemicals with diversified physicochemical properties, their uptake and bioaccumulation in the plant show great differences, which have drawn increasing attention from both research communities and the general public in recent years. To date, there are few quantitative assessments of the potential of plants to take up and translocate PPCPs, and available data on metabolism of PPCPs are also limited. Therefore, by assembling the literature, this review summarizes the uptake and accumulation pattern of PPCPs within plants, and explicitly clarifies the plant uptake and translocation processes from the perspective of the root and foliar uptake, short-distance and long-distance transport. The main factors influencing the uptake and transfer of PPCPs are also shed light on in this review. These factors include chemical hydrophobicity, ionization properties, pH, molecular size, lipid and carbohydrate content, transpiration rates, etc. Furthermore, related enzymes, transformation products and the role of plant-bacteria partnership in the metabolic process are elucidated. Moreover, the plant development, physiological and biochemical responses to the exposure to the PPCPs are summarized. Finally, on the basis of the results presented, research gap areas and questions have been also identified with future perspectives. Overall, this paper presents information for a more comprehensive understanding of the uptake, accumulation, translocation and metabolism of PPCPs in plants, and could be a valuable guideline to the key physiological and biochemical process of PPCPs from entering the plant and their phytotoxicity when assessing the risk of PPCPs.

Exploring the potential of Halomonas levan and its derivatives as active ingredients in cosmeceutical and skin regenerating formulations.

Demand on natural products that contain biological ingredients mimicking growth factors and cytokines made natural polysaccharides popular in pharmaceutical and cosmetic industries. Levan is the ß-(2-6) linked, nontoxic, biocompatible, water-soluble, film former fructan polymer that has diverse applications in pharmacy and cosmeceutical industries with its moisturizing, whitening, anti-irritant, anti-aging and slimming activities. Driven by the limited reports on few structurally similar levan polymers, this study presents the first systematic investigation on the effects of structurally different extremophilic Halomonas levan polysaccharides on human skin epidermis cells. In-vitro experiments with microbially produced linear Halomonas levan (HL), its hydrolyzed, (hHL) and sulfonated (ShHL) derivatives as well as enzymatically produced branched levan (EL) revealed increased keratinocyte and fibroblast proliferation (113-118 %), improved skin barrier function through induced expressions of involucrin (2.0 and 6.43 fold changes for HL and EL) and filaggrin (1.74 and 3.89 fold changes for hHL and ShHL) genes and increased type I collagen (2.63 for ShHL) and hyaluronan synthase 3 (1.41 for HL) gene expressions together with fast wound healing ability within 24 h (100 %, HL) on 2D wound models clearly showed that HL and its derivatives have high potential to be used as natural active ingredients in cosmeceutical and skin regenerating formulations.

Alternative biological sources for extracellular vesicles production and purification strategies for process scale-up.

Extracellular vesicles (EVs) are phospholipidic bi-layer enclosed nanoparticles secreted naturally by all cell types. They are attracting increasing attention in the fields of nanomedicine, nutraceutics and cosmetics as biocompatible carriers for drug delivery, with intrinsic properties beneficial to human health. Scientific work now focuses on developing techniques for isolating EVs that can translate into industrial-scale production and meet rigorous clinical requirements. The science of EVs is ongoing, and many pitfalls must be addressed, such as the requirement for standard, reproducible, inexpensive, and Good Manufacturing Practices (GMP) adherent EV processing techniques. Researchers are exploring the use of alternative sources to EVs derived from mammalian cultures, such as plant EVs, as well as the use of bacteria, algae and milk. Regarding the downstream processing of EVs, many alternative techniques to the ultracentrifugation (UC) protocols most commonly used in the laboratory are emerging. In the context of process scale-up, membrane-based processes for isolation and purification of EVs are the most promising, either as stand-alone processes or in combination with chromatographic techniques. This review discusses current trends on EVs source selection and EVs downstream processing techniques, with a focus on plant-derived EVs and membrane-based techniques for EVs enrichment.

Impact of solvent dry down, vehicle pH and slowly reversible keratin binding on skin penetration of cosmetic relevant compounds: I. Liquids.

To measure progress and evaluate performance of the newest UB/UC/P&G skin penetration model we simulated an 18-compound subset of finite dose in vitro human skin permeation data taken from a solvent-deposition study of cosmetic-relevant compounds (Hewitt et al., J. Appl. Toxicol. 2019, 1-13). The recent model extension involved slowly reversible binding of solutes to stratum corneum keratins. The selected subset was compounds that are liquid at skin temperature. This set was chosen to distinguish between slow binding and slow dissolution effects that impact solid phase compounds. To adequately simulate the physical experiments there was a need to adjust the evaporation mass transfer coefficient to better represent the diffusion cell system employed in the study. After this adjustment the model successfully predicted both dermal delivery and skin surface distribution of 12 of the 18 compounds. Exceptions involved compounds that were cysteine-reactive, highly water-soluble or highly ionized in the dose solution. Slow binding to keratin, as presently parameterized, was shown to significantly modify the stratum corneum kinetics and diffusion lag times, but not the ultimate disposition, of the more lipophilic compounds in the dataset. Recommendations for further improvement of both modeling methods and experimental design are offered.

Microalgae Bioactive Compounds to Topical Applications Products-A Review.

Microalgae are complex photosynthetic organisms found in marine and freshwater environments that produce valuable metabolites. Microalgae-derived metabolites have gained remarkable attention in different industrial biotechnological processes and pharmaceutical and cosmetic industries due to their multiple properties, including antioxidant, anti-aging, anti-cancer, phycoimmunomodulatory, anti-inflammatory, and antimicrobial activities. These properties are recognized as promising components for state-of-the-art cosmetics and cosmeceutical formulations. Efforts are being made to develop natural, non-toxic, and environmentally friendly products that replace synthetic products. This review summarizes some potential cosmeceutical applications of microalgae-derived biomolecules, their mechanisms of action, and extraction methods.

Highlighting the efficiency of ultrasound-based emulsifier-free emulsions to penetrate reconstructed human skin.

OBJECTIVE: The cosmetic industry endeavours to strengthen the greener and safer claims of processes to respond to the high demand from customers for natural and environmentally friendly products. High-frequency ultrasonication technology (HFUT) is a physical process enabling the stabilization of emulsions without requiring additional ingredients, such as emulsifying surfactants (ES) to be introduced into the formulations. In this study, key formulation characteristics of an emulsion synthesized by HFUT and a reference emulsion (RE) were compared, as well as the permeation kinetics of caffeine, used as a model active cosmetic ingredient, from both types of emulsions. METHODS: The pH, droplet size and viscosity of emulsions prepared by the HFUT and the RE were determined and compared. The permeation of caffeine from the HFUT emulsion and the RE applied to the surface of reconstructed human epidermis (RHE) models was compared. RESULTS: The ES-free formulations prepared by HFUT displayed a nearly 2-fold lower average droplet size and over 3-fold greater viscosity, compared to the RE. Despite these differences, the absence of ES in the HFUT emulsion did not significantly alter the permeation kinetics of caffeine through RHE. The caffeine steady-state flux, lag time and permeability coefficients differed by 20%-30% only. CONCLUSION: This study demonstrates the potential of the HFUT to yield topical cosmetic products with lower requirements ingredients-wise, without losing efficacy, supporting the possible implementation of the technology in the cosmetic industry.

OBJECTIF: l'industrie cosmétique œuvre à renforcer les revendications plus écologiques et plus sûres des processus pour répondre à la forte demande des clients de produits naturels et plus respectueux de l'environnement. La technologie d'ultrasons à haute fréquence (High-Frequency Ultrasonication Technology, HFUT) est un processus physique permettant de stabiliser les émulsions sans qu'il soit nécessaire d'ajouter des ingrédients supplémentaires, tels que des surfactants émulsifiants, aux formulations. Dans cette étude, les principales caractéristiques de formulation d'une émulsion synthétisée par HFUT et d'une émulsion de référence ont été comparées, ainsi que la cinétique de perméation de la caféine, utilisée comme ingrédient cosmétique actif modèle, dans les deux types d'émulsion. MÉTHODES: le pH, la taille des gouttelettes, et la viscosité de l'émulsion préparée par HFUT et de l'émulsion de référence ont été déterminés et comparés. La perméation de la caféine de l'émulsion HFUT et de l'émulsion de référence appliquées à la surface de modèles d'épiderme humain reconstruit a été comparée. RÉSULTATS: la formulation sans surfactants émulsifiants préparée par HFUT présentait une taille moyenne de gouttelettes presque 2 fois plus faible et une viscosité plus de 3 fois supérieure comparée à l'émulsion de référence. Malgré ces différences, l'absence de surfactants émulsifiants dans l'émulsion HFUT n'a pas significativement modifié la cinétique de perméation de la caféine dans l'épiderme humain reconstruit. Le flux à l'état d'équilibre de la caféine, le temps de latence et les coefficients de perméabilité différaient de 20 à 30 % uniquement. CONCLUSION: cette étude démontre le potentiel de la technologie HFUT à générer des produits cosmétiques topiques possédant des exigences plus faibles en termes d'ingrédients, sans perte d'efficacité, soutenant la mise en œuvre éventuelle de la technologie dans l'industrie cosmétique.

Emerging trends of nanotechnology in advanced cosmetics.

The cosmetic industry is dynamic and ever-evolving. Especially with the introduction and incorporation of nanotechnology-based approaches into cosmetics for evincing novel formulations that confers aesthetic as well as therapeutic benefits. Nanocosmetics acts via numerous delivery mechanisms which involves lipid nanocarrier systems, polymeric or metallic nanoparticles, nanocapsules, dendrimers, nanosponges,etc. Each of these, have particular characteristic properties, which facilitates increased drug loading, enhanced absorption, better cosmetic efficacy, and many more. This article discusses the different classes of nanotechnology-based cosmetics and the nanomaterials used for their formulation, followed by outlining the categories of nanocosmetics and the scope of their utility pertaining to skin, hair, nail, lip, and/or dental care and protection thereof. This review also highlights and discusses about the key drivers of the cosmetic industry and the impending need of corroborating a healthy regulatory framework, refocusing attention towards consumer needs and trends, inculcating sustainable techniques and tenets of green ecological principles, and lastly making strides in nano-technological advancements which will further propel the growth of the cosmetic industry.

Exploring compounds to be used as cosmetic agents that activate peroxisome proliferator-activated receptor alpha.

OBJECTIVE: The human epidermis is formed by the proliferation and differentiation of keratinocytes adjacent to the basement membrane. The outermost layer, the stratum corneum, is equipped with a barrier function that prevents water evaporation, and intercellular lipids play an important role in this barrier function. When the barrier is functioning normally, evaporation is prevented; however, when barrier function is impaired, moisture evaporates, resulting in dry and rough skin. Therefore, maintenance of normal barrier function is critical for maintaining normal skin function. Peroxisome proliferator-activated receptor α (PPARα) is mainly not only involved in lipid metabolism in the liver but is also expressed in the epidermis and is involved in inducing keratinocyte differentiation, promoting lipid production, maintaining barrier function and suppressing skin inflammation. Hence, compounds that activate PPARα are expected to control skin function. Therefore, we identified PPARα activators from among extracts of natural resources that have been approved for use in humans and analysed the effects of these extracts on skin function. METHODS: First, extracts of 474 natural resources were screened using a PPARα activator screening cell line independently constructed in our laboratory. Next, reporter assays were performed using the Gal4-chimera system to evaluate whether these extracts act as ligands for PPARα. We then analysed their effect on primary normal human epidermal keratinocyte cells by using real-time RT-PCR. Finally, we evaluated PPARα activation effect by the combination of these extracts. RESULTS: We identified 36 extracts having the effect of activating PPARα. In particular, #419, a Typha angustifolia spike extract, showed concentration-dependent transcriptional activation through PPARα-LBD and was considered to be likely to contain a compound that is a ligand of PPARα. #419 increased the expression of PPARα target genes and genes related to skin function in primary cultured human epidermal keratinocytes. Finally, the use of #419 in combination with nine extracts increased PPAR activity more than twice as much as #419 alone treatment. CONCLUSIONS: These results showed that the reporter cell line could be useful for discovering extracts of natural resources and that the identified Typha angustifolia spike extract could be used in cosmetics that activate PPARα, which expected to improve skin function.

OBJECTIF: L'épiderme humain se forme grâce à la prolifération et à la différenciation des kératinocytes adjacents à la membrane basale. La couche externe, dite « couche cornée ¼, possède une fonction barrière qui empêche l'évaporation de l'eau, dans laquelle les lipides intercellulaires jouent un rôle important. Lorsque la barrière fonctionne normalement, l'évaporation est évitée ; mais lorsqu'elle est altérée, l'évaporation a lieu et la peau, privée d'hydratation, devient sèche et rêche. Par conséquent, il est capital de maintenir cette fonction barrière normale pour que la peau conserve son fonctionnement normal. Le récepteur alpha activé par proliférateurs de peroxysomes (PPARα) intervient surtout non seulement dans le métabolisme lipidique du foie, mais également dans l'épiderme ; il joue en effet un rôle dans l'induction de la différenciation des kératinocytes, la promotion de la production lipidique, le maintien de la fonction barrière et la suppression de l'inflammation de l'épiderme. Par conséquent, les activateurs du PPAR-α devraient être déterminants pour une bonne fonction cutanée. Nous avons donc identifié des activateurs du PPAR-α parmi des extraits de ressources naturelles dont l'utilisation chez l'homme est approuvée, et nous avons analysé les effets de ces extraits sur la fonction cutanée. MÉTHODES: Tout d'abord, des extraits de 474 ressources naturelles ont été sélectionnés à l'aide d'une lignée cellulaire de détection des activateurs du PPAR-α, construite indépendamment dans notre laboratoire. Ensuite, des tests de gènes rapporteurs ont été effectués à l'aide du système Gal4-chimera pour voir si ces extraits jouaient le rôle de ligands pour le PPAR-α. Nous avons ensuite analysé leur effet sur les cellules kératinocytaires épidermiques humaines normales primaires par RT-PCR en temps réel. Enfin, nous avons évalué l'effet d'activation du PPAR-α par l'association de ces extraits. RÉSULTATS: Nous avons identifié 36 extraits ayant pour effet d'activer le PPAR-α. En particulier, le n° 419, un extrait d'épi de Typha angustifolia, a montré une activation transcriptionnelle dépendante de la concentration par le PPAR-α-LBD et a été considéré comme susceptible de contenir un composé qui est un ligand du PPAR-α. Le n° 419 a augmenté l'expression des gènes cibles du PPAR-α et des gènes liés au fonctionnement de la peau dans les kératinocytes épidermiques humains primaires mis en culture. Enfin, l'utilisation du n° 419 en association avec neuf extraits a augmenté de plus du double l'activité du PPAR par rapport au traitement par le n° 419 seul. CONCLUSIONS: Ces résultats ont montré que la lignée cellulaire rapporteuse pourrait être utile pour découvrir des extraits de ressources naturelles et que l'extrait d'épi de Typha angustifolia identifié pourrait être utilisé dans des cosmétiques qui activent le PPAR-α, ce qui devrait améliorer la fonction cutanée.

Effect of fermentation time on the content of bioactive compounds with cosmetic and dermatological properties in Kombucha Yerba Mate extracts.

Kombucha is a beverage made by fermenting sugared tea using a symbiotic culture of bacteria belonging to the genus Acetobacter, Gluconobacter, and the yeasts of the genus Saccharomyces along with glucuronic acid, which has health-promoting properties. The paper presents the evaluation of ferments as a potential cosmetic raw material obtained from Yerba Mate after different fermentation times with the addition of Kombucha. Fermented and unfermented extracts were compared in terms of chemical composition and biological activity. The antioxidant potential of obtained ferments was analyzed by evaluating the scavenging of external and intracellular free radicals. Cytotoxicity was determined on keratinocyte and fibroblast cell lines, resulting in significant increase in cell viability for the ferments. The ferments, especially after 14 and 21 days of fermentation showed strong ability to inhibit (about 40% for F21) the activity of lipoxygenase, collagenase and elastase enzymes and long-lasting hydration after their application on the skin. Moreover, active chemical compounds, including phenolic acids, xanthines and flavonoids were identified by HPLC/ESI-MS. The results showed that both the analyzed Yerba Mate extract and the ferments obtained with Kombucha may be valuable ingredients in cosmetic products.

Signal Peptides - Promising Ingredients in Cosmetics.

Naturally occurring peptides found in the human skin can serve particular biological activities and play roles as signaling molecules of various physiological processes such as homeostasis, growth, defense or immunity. Their great biological activity resulted in a growing interest in the pharmaceutical industry. Researchers consider peptides either promising compounds with potential application for human diagnosis, therapy or cosmetics. Peptides are becoming interesting cosmetic ingredients with the functions to reduce premature skin aging, improve the barrier function of skin, moisturize the skin, protect it from UV damage, and anti-inflammatory properties that alleviate acne and irritation. Till now, peptides of different origins were investigated in formulation developed to enhance collagen or elastin production, increase fibroblast proliferation, improve wound healing or skin condition. Most of them are obtained by chemical synthesis or by partial digestion of animal proteins. Short and easily synthesized peptides with alternative amino acid sequence, and combinations have created a new field of molecules inspired by nature and implemented in the cosmetic industry. Nowadays, peptides are cheaper and easier to produce in large quantities. The efficient process development methods allow obtaining nearly unlimited sequences, which makes them functionally preferred. Generally, cosmetic peptides are categorized as carrier peptides, neurotransmitter- affecting peptides, enzyme inhibitor peptides and signal peptides. The use of signal peptides in cosmetics increased over a few years. These molecules trigger a signaling cascade and stimulate fibroblast collagen production, the proliferation of elastin, fibronectin, laminin, etc. Thus, a literature search on a topical application of the most common signal peptides; and their current status in the cosmetic industry was carried out.

Analytical method development and percutaneous absorption of propylidene phthalide, a cosmetic ingredient.

Propylidene phthalide (PP) is a cosmetic ingredient used in the fragrance industry and regulated for the limited content of 0.01% in cosmetic products in Korea. The aim of this study was to determine PP dermal absorption rate according to the Korea Ministry of Food and Drug Safety (MFDS) guidelines using in vitro Franz diffusion system. An analytical method in assessing PP was developed through method validation using LC-MS/MS. Linearity, precision, and accuracy were acceptable based upon MFDS guidelines. The stability of PP in receptor fluid (50% ethanol) at 32°C was sufficient up to 24 hr. Cream formulation (o/w) was topically applied to excised rat skin at a dose of 113 mg/cm2 containing 0.7% PP. The time points for receptor fluid collection were set at 0, 1, 2, 4, 8, 12, and 24 hr. After 24 hr, the remaining formulation on the skin and stratum corneum (SC) were collected through swabbing with an alcohol cotton and tape stripping, respectively. The collected samples (swabbed-remained formulation, SC, and skin) were extracted using acetonitrile for 24 hr. Total dermal absorption rate of PP was approximately 24% in cream formulation. These findings may be used for further exposure evaluation of PP in human consumers.

Redirecting drug repositioning to discover innovative cosmeceuticals.

Skin appearance is essential for self-esteem and quality of life; consequently, skin care products represent a huge market. In particular, cosmeceuticals constitute a hybrid category of skin care formulations, at the interphase of cosmetics and pharmaceuticals, rationally designed to target (patho) physiological mechanisms aiming to enhance skin health and appearance. Cosmeceuticals are marketed as anti-ageing, anti-wrinkle, hair regrowth, skin whitening and wound healing agents with special emphasis on scar-free healing. An overview on recent cutting-edge advances concerning the discovery and development of enhanced performance cosmeceuticals by drug repositioning approaches is presented here. In this context, we propose "target repositioning," a new term, to highlight that druggable protein targets implicated in multiple diseases (hubs in the diseasome) can be exploited to accelerate the discovery of molecularly targeted cosmeceuticals that can promote skin health as an added benefit, which is a novel concept not described before. In this direction, emphasis is placed on the role of mouse models, for often untreatable skin diseases, as well as recent breakthroughs on monogenic rare skin syndromes, in promoting compound repositioning to innovative cosmeceuticals.

Green Synthesis of Copper Oxide Nanoparticles using Cucumis Sativus (Cucumber) Extracts and their Bio-Physical and Biochemical Characterization for Cosmetic and Dermatologic Applications.

BACKGROUND & OBJECTIVE: Nanoparticles are used in cosmetic and dermatologic products, due to better skin penetration properties. Incorporation of natural products exhibiting medicinal properties in nano-preparations could significantly improve the efficacy of these products and improve the quality of life without the side effects of synthetic formulations. METHODS: We here report the green synthesis of Copper Oxide nanoparticles, using Cucumber extract, and their detailed bio-physical and bio-chemical characterization. RESULTS: These Copper Oxide-Cucumber nanoparticles exhibit significant anti-bacterial and anti-fungal properties, Ultra Violet-radiation protection ability and reactive-oxygen species inhibition properties. Importantly, these nanoparticles do not exhibit significant cellular toxicity and, when incorporated in skin cream, exhibit skin rejuvenating properties. CONCLUSION: Our findings have implications for nanoparticle-based cosmetics and dermatologic applications.